Why Upgrade to a High-Arc Tub Faucet?

Switching from a standard low-profile tub filler to a high-arc faucet tackles two persistent bathroom frustrations: limited clearance and outdated styling. Standard tub faucets often sit just a few inches above the rim, making it difficult to fill large buckets, clean the back of the tub, or even wash your hands comfortably. A high-arc design lifts the spout 8 to 12 inches or more above the deck, providing the extra vertical space you need for everyday tasks. The change also modernizes your bathroom without requiring a full renovation. Whether you are replacing an existing faucet or upgrading during a remodel, the process is manageable for most DIY homeowners.

Beyond convenience, a high-arc faucet improves water flow dynamics. The taller spout reduces the risk of water splashing off large objects you place under it. Many high-arc models also include a diverter for a handheld sprayer, adding versatility for rinsing the tub or bathing children. The enhanced reach and swivel range of a high-arc spout make it easier to direct water exactly where you need it. These practical benefits, combined with the sleek silhouette, explain why high-arc faucets have become a top choice in modern bathrooms.

Comparing High-Arc and Standard Faucets

Clearance and Functionality

A standard tub faucet typically extends 4 to 6 inches from the deck. The spout may be fixed or a short goose-neck. High-arc faucets rise vertically before curving outward, creating a clearance of 6 to 10 inches or more under the spout. This added space makes it possible to fit a 5-gallon bucket or a large watering can under the stream. For homeowners who use their tub for laundry, plant watering, or pet washing, the difference is significant.

Aesthetic Impact

High-arc faucets visually anchor the tub area. They draw the eye upward and create a sense of height, which can make a small bathroom feel larger. Standard faucets tend to blend into the background. The arching profile of a high-arc model, whether in chrome, brushed nickel, or matte black, becomes a focal point. It pairs well with both contemporary and transitional bathroom designs.

Cost and Installation Complexity

Standard faucets are generally cheaper, but the price gap has narrowed. Basic high-arc models start around $80, while designer versions can exceed $400. Installation complexity is similar, though the taller body may require more clearance behind the tub. You will need to verify that the faucet will not interfere with a window sill, shelf, or tiled ledge. Most high-arc tub faucets use the same 3-hole or 4-hole deck configuration as standard models, so retrofitting is straightforward.

Essential Tools and Materials

Gather these items before starting. Having everything on hand prevents mid-project trips to the hardware store.

  • Adjustable wrench – Use two if possible, one for holding the faucet body and one for tightening nuts.
  • Basin wrench – Essential for reaching nuts in tight spots under the tub deck.
  • Screwdrivers – Phillips and flathead for removing old handle screws and escutcheon plates.
  • Plumber's tape (PTFE tape) – Wraps around threaded connections to prevent leaks.
  • Tubing cutter or hacksaw – Only needed if you are cutting supply lines.
  • Silicone sealant – Clear or color-matched for sealing the base plate and preventing moisture intrusion.
  • High-arc tub faucet kit – Verify it includes mounting hardware, supply lines, and diverter if applicable.
  • Bucket and towels – Catch any water that drains from the lines after shutoff.

Optional but recommended: a flashlight, a mirror for viewing under the deck, and a tube of pipe joint compound for metal-to-metal threads.

Pre-Installation Planning and Safety

Measure Your Space

Before you buy a high-arc faucet, measure the distance from the deck to any overhead obstruction (window ledge, soap dish, tiled ledge). The faucet must have at least 2 inches of clearance above its highest point to allow for installation and future maintenance. Also measure the deck thickness – most faucets fit decks up to 2 inches thick. If your deck is thicker, you may need a faucet with longer shanks or a wall-mount alternative.

Check Deck Configuration

Standard 3-hole decks are spaced 4 inches on center (center-set) or 8 inches on center (widespread). High-arc tub faucets typically use the 8-inch spacing. Ensure your existing hole pattern matches. If you have a single-hole deck, you can use a deck plate to cover unused holes. For wall-mount conversions, you will need to relocate the water supply lines inside the wall – a job that often requires a plumber.

Turn Off Water Supply

Locate the shutoff valves under the sink or tub. Turn them clockwise until tight. If your tub does not have dedicated shutoffs, turn off the main water supply. Open the old faucet to drain residual water. Place a bucket under the supply lines to catch drips.

Electrical Safety

If your bathroom has GFCI outlets near the tub area, ensure no power tools are near water. Working on metal pipes in a wet environment requires caution. Use rubber-soled shoes and keep tools dry.

Step-by-Step Removal of the Old Faucet

Disconnect Supply Lines

Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts connecting the supply hoses to the faucet tailpieces. If the nuts are corroded, apply penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes. Once loose, unscrew them by hand. Cap the open ends of the supply lines with a rag or tape to prevent debris from entering.

Remove Mounting Hardware

Reach under the deck with a basin wrench to unscrew the mounting nuts that hold the faucet body in place. If the nuts are plastic, they may crack – work carefully. After removing the nuts, slide the mounting washers off the shanks.

Lift Out the Old Faucet

From above the deck, pull the faucet straight up. If it sticks, tap the underside of the deck with a rubber mallet to loosen the gasket. Clean away old plumber's putty or silicone from the deck surface using a scraper and mineral spirits. A clean surface ensures a watertight seal for the new faucet.

Installing the New High-Arc Faucet

Prepare the Deck and Threads

Apply a bead of silicone sealant around the faucet's base plate mounting area. This prevents water from seeping under the escutcheon. Wrap plumber's tape clockwise 3 to 4 times around each threaded tailpiece. Do not tape the supply line ends – only the connections that screw into the faucet.

Position and Secure the Faucet

Lower the high-arc faucet into the mounting holes from above. Ensure the spout is oriented correctly (some models have a fixed spout, others swivel). From below, slide the rubber gasket, then the brass or plastic mounting washer, and finally the mounting nut. Tighten the nuts by hand, then give each nut a quarter turn with a basin wrench. Do not overtighten – you may crack the deck or warp the base plate.

Connect Supply Lines

Attach the flexible supply hoses to the faucet tailpieces. Use two wrenches: one to hold the tailpiece and one to tighten the hose nut. Apply plumber's tape if the connections are threaded. If using compression fittings, follow the manufacturer's torque specification.

Install Handles and Diverter

Slide handle sleeves onto the valve stems, then secure with setscrews. For faucets with a diverter knob, attach it according to the instructions. Test the operation: turn on the water slowly and check for leaks at every connection. Tighten as needed.

Essential Testing for Leaks

After installing, turn on the water supply at the shutoff valves. Open the faucet fully and allow water to flow for 30 seconds. Look for drips under the deck, around the base plate, and at the supply line connections. Use a dry paper towel to check for moisture that might not be visible. If you detect any leaks, tighten the offending nut or connection slightly. If the leak persists, disassemble the connection, replace the O-ring or re-tape, and reassemble.

Check the diverter operation by pulling the sprayer trigger or turning the diverter knob. Ensure the water flow stops at the spout and directs to the sprayer. If water continues to drip from the spout when the diverter is engaged, the diverter cartridge may need adjustment or replacement.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Low Water Pressure After Installation

High-arc faucets can trap air in the spout. Run water for 2 minutes to purge air. If pressure remains low, check that the supply lines are not kinked. Also verify that the shutoff valves are fully open – sometimes they are partially closed after testing.

Faucet Wobbles

Tighten the mounting nuts from below. If the deck is uneven, use a metal shim under the faucet base. Some high-arc models include a locking collar that prevents rotation – ensure that is engaged.

Hands-Free Sprayer Doesn't Retract

Check the weight on the sprayer hose – it may be caught on supply lines. Pull the hose gently to free it. If the sprayer head sticks out, the hose may be too short; replace with a longer hose.

Maintenance Tips for High-Arc Faucets

Regular Cleaning

Wipe the spout and handles with a soft cloth after each use to prevent water spots. For hard water stains, use a mixture of white vinegar and water (1:1) and a non-abrasive sponge. Avoid harsh cleaners that can damage finishes.

Aerator Maintenance

High-arc faucets often have a removable aerator at the spout tip. Unscrew it every 3 months and clean out debris. If water flow reduces over time, the aerator is likely clogged.

Lubricate Moving Parts

If handles become stiff, apply silicone-based lubricant to the valve stems. Do not use petroleum-based products – they can damage O-rings.

Building Code and Compliance Considerations

Most local plumbing codes follow the International Plumbing Code (IPC) or the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC). For tub fillers, the spout must have an air gap of at least 1 inch above the flood rim of the tub to prevent back-siphonage. High-arc faucets easily meet this requirement. If you install a handheld sprayer, ensure it includes a vacuum breaker or that the faucet has an integral backflow preventer. Check with your local building department – a permit may be required for any supply line modifications.

For additional guidance, consult the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO) or your local plumbing authority. If you are unsure about code compliance, hire a licensed plumber.

Choosing the Right High-Arc Faucet: Key Buying Factors

Finish Durability

Chrome is the most durable and easiest to clean. Brushed nickel hides fingerprints well. Matte black and oil-rubbed bronze require gentle cleaners to avoid scratching. Look for finishes with a manufacturer warranty of at least 5 years.

Spout Reach and Swivel

Measure from the center of the faucet mounting hole to the back wall. A spout with too much reach may hit the wall; too little reach creates splashing. Most high-arc spouts swivel 180 or 360 degrees. Ensure the swivel range works with your tub layout.

Diverter Options

Some high-arc tub fillers come with a handheld sprayer. Others have a built-in diverter on the spout base. Consider how often you will use a sprayer – if rarely, avoid the added cost and potential leak points.

Valve Type

Ceramic disc valves offer smooth operation and long life. Compression valves are less expensive but may need washer replacement every few years. For a high-use tub faucet, ceramic disc is recommended.

For a comprehensive comparison of tub faucet types and brands, visit Family Handyman’s bathtub faucet guide.

Cost and Return on Investment

The average cost of a high-arc tub faucet ranges from $100 to $300 for a reliable mid-range model. Professional installation adds $150 to $300 if you do not have the tools or confidence. The upgrade increases bathroom functionality immediately. While resale value is difficult to isolate, modern fixtures are a key selling point in real estate. A 2023 Harvard Joint Center for Housing Studies report noted that mid-range bathroom fixture upgrades recoup about 70% of their cost at resale. For a $200 faucet, that’s a $140 return – not including the daily convenience bonus.

When to Call a Professional

Consider hiring a plumber if you encounter any of these scenarios:

  • The deck configuration requires enlarging holes or drilling new ones.
  • You are converting from a deck-mount to a wall-mount faucet – this requires opening the wall and relocating pipes.
  • The supply lines are copper and you do not have a tubing cutter or compression tool.
  • There is no access panel behind the tub, making it nearly impossible to reach mounting nuts from below.
  • You are uncomfortable working with water supply lines – a small mistake can cause water damage.

A licensed plumber can complete the job in 1-2 hours and guarantee the work.

Conclusion

Transitioning to a high-arc tub faucet is a rewarding DIY project that delivers tangible benefits: improved clearance, modern aesthetics, and easier tub maintenance. With careful measurement, the right tools, and a methodical approach, you can complete the installation in a single afternoon. Always prioritize water supply shutoff and leak testing. If you run into complications, do not hesitate to call a professional. The result – a more functional and stylish bathing space – will make your effort worthwhile.

For more plumbing tips, see our guide on This Old House’s plumbing repair section.